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But the lobster grilled cheese, meatball sandwich, friendly bartenders, and good beer tell me this is a sleeper gem. Recent meals have shown some more moderately priced overtures that should have stronger appeal to the neighborhood, including one of Philly's best burgers and a stellar fried chicken Tuesday deal.

Modo Mio Peter Mc Andrews' raucous Italian BYO is known for tasting-menu values.

But the -per-person weekly event known as Sugo Sunday is one of my favorites, a homespun abbondanza of Italian American classics that hardly spares a crowd-favorite dish, from antipasto platters and crusty house-made bread to the platters of huge meatballs and sausage stewed in red gravy, ricotta-laced lasagna, gnocchi, and piles of garlicky chicken beneath juice-soaked roasted pork.

The Pickled Heron The classically inspired French cooking at this polished townhouse BYOB from chefs Daniela D'Ambrosio and Todd Braley has always seemed a bit expensive and old-school for Frankford Avenue's bargain-minded crowd.

La Colombe's stunning Fishtown flagship cafe is more than a high-style coffee hall.

Set in the soaring brick bones of an old warehouse, it's a bold experiment in the possibilities for coffee-driven hybrid concepts - in this case, a bakery and rum distillery - and a vibrant magnet for the neighborhood.

Fette Sau This partnership between Brooklyn's Joe Carroll and Stephen Starr pairs one of Philly's great American whiskey collections with its best barbecue. Philly's "it" BYOB has illuminated the fringe of this emerging neighborhood as talented young co-owners Kevin D'Egidio and Mike Griffiths made the most of their debut, and were named co-chefs of the year for 2015.

I especially love the slow-smoked brisket, short rib and pork belly, a coffee-rubbed array of sliced-by-the-pound meats eaten at communal tables in a space that feels like a rambling southern shack. They've transformed a simple (noisy) 34-seat space into a blackboard-menu showcase for ultra-seasonal cooking driven by North Philly's urban farms, from house burrata to lamb with tiny local turnips and Brussels sprouts tortellini.

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The price-consciousness of that youthful demographic has informed the casual style and affordability of the most popular destinations, many of them bars and cafes, but also a strong roster of Mexican and Southeast Asian restaurants ranging from traditional to creative hipster fusions.From chewy hand-rolled bagels boiled in local IPA and charcuterie made at the whole-animal butcher shop, to the crusty breads, the deftly roasted single-origin coffees, the funky-flavored ice creams, the urban farm-grown produce, not to mention the beers and booze being poured at its many gastropubs, the hyper-local pedigree of ingredients here is proof that neighboring Fishtown and Kensington are becoming makers of their own culinary destinies.Craft spirits, in particular, have become a force in short order, as the opening of five distilleries within just the last year and a half - and a sixth big one opening soon - has created a veritable Distiller's Row.Along with one of the area's best draft-beer lists, there's a seasonally minded menu from chef Brian Lofink, who, aside from an excellent burger and beer-can chicken salad, also turns out notable salads (with chorizo) and a high-low eats master snack of cheesesteak spring rolls with decadently creamy foie gras sauce.Memphis Taproom This handsome corner bar was the first gastropub flag planted in lower Kensington, and it remains a go-to for rare brews (Kosmic Mother Funk), a warm-weather beer garden, and a menu that bops between creative fried things (chicken fried cauliflower? ) and vegan creativity, including lentil "meatballs" and a surprising smoked coconut-tofu club sandwich that's an object of Philly vegan lust.




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